Ask the Pro's at Arch Painting

.

Q. What can I add to a can of high-gloss latex paint to eliminate pinholing?

A. Just adding something to paint may or may not eliminate pinholing. If the cause of the pinholing is that the paint is drying too fast, then adding up to 1 pint of water per gallon may help. There are companies (Flood Co. is one) that manufacture additives for paint that help improve flow and slow down the dry time. The newer hybrid water-based paints may be sensitive to these additives. It's best to confirm with the sales representative whether you can add them to the product. Another cause of pinholing is excessive film build, which causes solvent pop. The top layer of paint dries faster than the underside and this traps the solvents in the paint. As the solvent attempts to escape from the coating, it first causes a small blister and then the blister pops leaving a pinhole. By measuring wet film build with a wet film gauge, you can determine if you are applying too much paint.

Q. Can you suggest a heavy-duty paint for painting the floor of an Industrial building? The current paint lasted only a few months.

A.I recommend heavy-duty ArmorSeal 1000HS from Sherwin-Williams. This is a floor epoxy that withstands forklift traffic after 72 hours of cure time at 77 degrees. Surface prep is important. For best performance, remove the old coating using a shotblaster. This will remove the old paint and give an excellent profile which the new finish can adhered to.If you are unable to do this prep, there is ArmorSeal water-based epoxy primer that can be used as an intermediate coat. I suggest you test both products in a small area to assure no lifting of the old coat. Apply the base coat of primer, topcoat, wait 24 hours, and then check the adhesion. Always follow the manufacturer's label instructions for mixing and application.

Q.What is the proper method for applying paint over new stucco surfaces?

A. Prime the stucco with a primer designed to handle a high pH, such as Sherwin-Williams Loxon Masonry Primer. Then follow with a premium quality exterior paint, like Sherwin-Williams SuperPaint.

Q. What factors are most significant in determining paint quality? We are about to paint a Victorian home and are looking for the highest quality exterior paint. Longevity without shrinking, cracking or loss of luster are our primary concerns.

A. The main factors are the type and amount of resin (the binder that holds the paint together), type and amount of pigment, volume solids and film thickness. A paint like Sherwin-Williams SuperPaint, which is 100 percent acrylic resin, has mostly Titanium Dioxide pigment, and has enough volume solids for applying two topcoats of 1.3 - 1.5 mils DFT percoat, will last the longest.

Q. Does pre-primed hardboard siding have to be primed after it is intalled on the house?

A. It is always a good idea to check the siding manufacturer's recommendations before painting. In most situations, a coat of exterior alkyd primer before applying two coats of an acrylic latex topcoat enhances the paint job. A coat of primer will promote better adhesion of the topcoat and assure that the hardboard, particularly the bottom edge, is adequately sealed from the elements. A good primer choice is Sherwin-Williams PrepRite Quick Seal Exterior Alkyd Primer, which lets you topcoat in one hour.

Q. A builder I paint for requested information on my painting work. What is a standard warranty for an exterior and interior paint job?

A. Most builders I've worked with give a one year warranty on their homes and usually require their subcontractors to do the same on their work.

Q. How can I tell what kind of wood I am painting? If there is rot, does this mean it is cedar?

A. Sand some exposed wood until it looks almost new. Cedar and redwood usually have a reddish color (or gray if exposed to the sun). Cedar usually does not rot because of its acid content. Pine will look yellow, is very soft and can easily be dented with a fingernail. Cypress is also used in some areas, but rarely see cases of rot. Make sure you replace any decayed or rotted wood and fix the cause of the damage before proceeding.

Q. We're ready to work on a 20-year old house with cedar siding. The problem is the nail heads are all rusted, and the areas around them are bleeding. Is there a sure-fire way to seal in rusted nail heads?

A You can take care of the rust by counter sinking the nails, spot priming with a rust inhibitive primer, then filling the hole up with an acrylic latex caulk. This will keep the moisture away from the nail head. The staining problem may still continue as the moisture and tannic acid in the wood react with the metal in the nails. I suggest applying a coat of an exterior alkyd wood primer, then two coats ofa 100% acrylic latex paint.

Q. We have recommended and used oil-based Sherwin-Williams coatingsfor all exterior woodwork for years. The paints have changed and so too have the results. Are we too "old school" to keep using alkyd coatings? Should we switch to latex? What are the pros and cons?

A. Acrylic latex technology for exterior house painting has advanced beyond the performance capabilities of most exterior alkyd-based paints. Acrylics exceed exterior alkyd coating performance for fade resistance, chalk resistance, better flexibility, adhesion characteristics and mold and mildew resistance. Surface preparation requirements should be closely followed. Water-based acrylic latex dries faster and needs cleaner surfaces. Alkyds are more forgiving on less-prepared surfaces and apply to 40'F with better wetting characteristics. Recently, acrylic technologies have developed products to apply down to 35'F, replacing the old standard of 50'F or higher for application and early curing. Your local Sherwin-Williams store can introduce you to all these products.

Q. What is the most efficient method for tackling calcimine painted surfaces like ceilings?

A. Because calcimine paints contain little or no binder, they tend to be very chalky. Clean the surface with a household cleaner to remove as much chalk as possible. Rinse thoroughly. Then apply a primer that secures adhesion on chalky surfaces, such as LOXON Conditioner. Follow with two coats of the topcoat you select.

Q. I have an old deck that my customer would like painted. What is the process for such a project? Will it extend the life of the deck?

A. Painting a wood deck can be the start of an ongoing, frequent painting project. You will be much better off in the long run to take the time now to remove any existing finish, clean the wood, and finish the deck with a deck sealer or stain. When you apply paint to a deck you put a continuous film of paint on the surface. Also, you are usually only able to paint the top and ends of the boards, leaving the sides and underside unprotected and able to absorb moisture. The moisture in the wood is then drawn to the surface by the heat of the sun and gets trapped under the continuous film of paint. The paint then blisters and peels, and you start the cycle over again. A deck sealer or stain does not form a film like paint, but still protects the wood from the elements and allows moisture to pass through it, lessening the likelihood of blistering and peeling. Most of the sealers and stains are clear or semi-transparent so the wood has to be in pretty good shape to be able to use them. There are some solid color stains designed specifically to handle foot traffic on a deck that can be applied on an old deck after it is prepared according to the manufacturer's label instructions.

Q. I am getting ready to paint the exterior of a house and am looking for some advice. The house is 35 years old and has aluminum siding that was painted once by the previous owner. It is now starting to peel. I also plan to paint the soffits, which are wood, and the gutters, which are aluminum.

A. The first thing I recommend is a good pressure washing of the entire house. This will remove any surface contaminants that could affect adhesion of the new paint and should also remove any peeling paint from the aluminum siding. I also recommend you have someone at your local paint store look at the peeling paint to determine what caused it to peel so you can correct the problem.Assuming that none of the wood soffits or aluminum gutters are peeling, you shouldn't need a primer. Primers are usually necessary only when you are paintinga bare substrate. Make sure that any glossy areas are sanded to remove the gloss. Remove any old, cracked caulking and replace with new acrylic latex caulk.The longest lasting paint for exterior use is a 100% acrylic latex house paint. They are usually available in a variety of sheens- flat, satin and gloss. As for application method, it's up to you. If you have the equipment to spray, it's certainly the quickest way to get the job done. Rolling would be difficult on the aluminum siding. Brushing is acceptable, but very time consuming.

Source: Professional Painting Contractor

Call Toll Free: (877) 933-9335